Football and surf

Sunday we were informed of a big football game. So we decided to go watch it that night. But during the day we went for a walk along the beach. Shauna went to sun tan and I kept going. There was a guy out fishing on the rocks and he got an otapus it was so cool. He was showing it to a little girl that was there crab hunting with her mom, and so I walked over to see it and he like shoved it in my face to see I was to chicken to touch it.
Then just read in the sun most of the day.
That night we went to the bar to watch the game. 1€ for a glass of sangria.
It was the champion game and we'll the team every one was routing for lost. I thought the girl sitting at our table was going to start crying. Then to be funny she pulled out like three cigarettes to start smoking them all at once.
There was no mad party that night.
Back to surfing
We both had this one awasum afternoon were we caught green wave after green. I even got one turned and had it making the tunnel behind me and I stayed on the green part. That was the best one so far and I don't think I will ever for get it.
The others were ok alot more falls then getting up, yesterday I got up got into spot and fell off... Mario thinks eather the wind since it was very windy, or to much weight on the back leg. Or both.
Oh good news
Back track when we got here the put us on 7'6" boards hard.
I got moved down to a 7'2" board, ya I rock. It responds so differently on the wave. However u have to paddle so much harder to get it. To go and u have to wait for just the right moment to stand. If not u will miss the wave, or do a face plant.
Now the big crash so far.
Mario "paddle paddle"
kristy inerdilog " paddle paddle paddle, now up up up up.......... up to surfas must breath air"
kristy standing there stuned mario right there "u ok"
kristy inerdilog well of corse mario got that wave... shake head to clear "yep, that was fun" 
so what happen well i was paddling my little arms off, curnt put me side ways so i did a beautiful bunch of log rolls.... the wave i was in caught up to a second one. so more tossing around. get to surface " covering my head, very windy day" come up under board.... stand up stunned......latter found out Mario did not catch wave i just stood there not resonding long enough for him to paddle closer to me.... 
I am ok and we'll I went back out to try again.
Today is Wednesday and we are taking a day off we are both physical tired from all the padling, and the wind is very bad making it hard to surf big swell, so all the schools would be in one place not fun. So day off ya. LOL my poor body hurts all over.