So Sunday was just a relax get the kinks out from sitting so long. Went to our favorite cafe bar for dinner.
Monday was when the hard work started.
We are on 6 and a half foot boards, and they are hard not foam.... Moving up in the surfing world. The dig difference is that it hurts now when you fall, hit the board, or the board hits you. I was very excited I got up on my very first green that I tryed to get. Felt awasum. Missed surfing and waves.
The water is cold like anckle numing, but thanks to the wet suits not to bad.
Got a few great waves enjoyed it so much.
Our morning lesson was at 9:30 and the afternoon one was at 4:30 well with in that time our body's let us now how much they love the new harder boards.
We went to the bakery and got us some of our favorite tarts they are very very good.
At 4:30 well get to wear our wetsuits down because we are surfing right in front of the house. Feel like a true surfer.
Ture to us we bring the clouds and the big waves.
We have now been sticking to the white waves. I can turn to my back side quite well witch is good because most waves here are braking left.
So as we are playing in the shallow safe water... Ya right. Let me introduced you to our new friends the backwards wave. Oh yes not only do waves hit you from the front now the back and the oh so fun when they collide.
The beach is sloped that is what alows for these back wards waves. You will be standing there if u can with the under toe and it will all ovasuden disappear and you can see the 2- 3 ' wave infront of u but not the 1-2' one behind u. What a sight it is to see the two colied and they will nock u on ur butt so fast. I was going to ketch one wave and did not look to see if a back wash one was coming my bad right there. I was just at the peak when the two colided. I was flung up into the air our tacher Mario was laughing his but off when I came up. There were some good fallls that day.
One day we went to a different beach and we were jumping over the waves no big so I go to jump over one... Well I mega underestimated it. My board did not even reach the top. Who knows my feet can touch my head. I did three full rotational how u might ask well other then my made skill to stay calm when be thrashed around under water. Because my head was so nicly draged through the sand. Plus it felt like doing sumersults in terms pool.
At the same beach it seemed very busy so I asked mairo is this bussy. " can u see sand" he loves to leave u guessing for more. So I guess it is a very very busy beach I can see why they avoid it.
So this morning went very well. I think I now know why I have such a hard time turning to my front side it puts alot of pressure on my left anckle.
But back side turn is going great.
This afternoon we padled out. Shauna managed to break her leash so her surf board started to run away.
I tryed to ketch some waves ony got in on two the first one I wentbto stand up wrong, the second one I was doing great Mario was yelling up I started to get up then my brain kicked in I looked down and we'll I got to go for another roll.
Now trying to get out was just a peach. Because the tide was high rember the bank is sloped the waves were crashing right on the sand so we get into the break point on my arms are on fire from paddling so hard. And one wave just drops right from under me. So I get up and try to get my board that was my mistake should have just ran. I got slamed from behind and all I could think was shot as my board came up in the air from a back wave and all I could see was it hitting me in the face. How my board missed me I don't know when I came up to the air my board was not far off I grabbed it and ran up the slop draging my board. Then I sat down and watch shauna get tossed by the waves. We have so much sand in our hair I am still picking it out and I have showered hair has dryed and this was over four hours ago. My shoulders and arms hate to move so more reading in the sun is in order.
I will hopefully but up all the birthday fun we get up to on Sunday.
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