Ya winter 9 feet waves

Today did not start off well. I felt like I did not sleep at all. Apparently I did because I yelled out "what is your number ", so shauna says I do not remember.
Mario was our teacher all day today. Our wetsuits were almost fully dry so that was great.
He explained that today there would only be one place we could try to surf today because there was a swell coming in and the wind was strong. The waves were 3 meters high. That is. Over. 9 feet. Crazy.  Today was an advance surfer day. So we get to the beach and there is maybe 3 people there. The other surf school showed up with two of there students. It was nice that is was just the 4. of us in the white surf zone. I found out the were from salvacia.
The tide was hard to fight and the instructor from the other school was out on his board and was surfing backwards. He seamed very hands off compared to our teachers.  But I did get one great wave and our teachers were standing together and Mario said to bend my knees more so I did and surfed right past them. On my way back the other teacher from the other school said " good student, great wave" that made me happy.  Then Mario told me why I needed to bend more.
We went home early but just as tired fighting the surf was so hard it was low tied.
We went back at two and Mario went back over the Safty rules because the tide was coming in and would be much stronger.
When wewere stretching and worming up we watched the waves come right up there the top of the beach, some surfers were eating lunch and the waves tryed to steal there food.
When we were on land Mario taught me how to turn. :D
We got out in the water oh man did we take a beating. I got a great wave but road it to close to shore the ocean took my board from me and gave me a sand bath. I got sand every were even down my wet suit. I did not get to try turning much there were very few waves to ride.
We would be standing in knee high water two waves latter and it was over our heads.  I did learn to get in water over you head. To paddle more for stronger waves, you can be pulled sideways and have a wave crash ontop of u. Let go of surfboard. Just because you fall off the board backwards does not mean the wave will not make it come back and hit you on the head.  Fully lift board out of water or ocean will make it sweep you off your feet.
Tomorrow the ocean should be much calmer.
Today I have to leave the water I was worried about hurting my knee because the ocean pulled and pushed so many ways.
Good night here is hoping for another sunny day and not so angry ocean tomorrow!