To start off the day we were surfing the 9 feet waves there was a guy breaking the world record for biggest wave surfed it was 100 ft yep and it was less then an hour drive from were we were surfing.
We had 2 days off, surf 5 get two off. The first day we walked to this fort that we can see way down the beach. It was about a 3 k walk on this back road through the country. What a great view.
That night or surf instructor going to call him Joe because that is what his name is in English I guess is what Mario was telling us to day. So Joe took us out for an authentic dinner. We went to this restaurant that is his favorite and they had the fish just on ice and you could pick yours out. So we ended up getting a starter with octopus, muscles, shrimp (with there faces still on), and fish eggs. So I tryed the octopus and I liked it I had two pieces. The fish eggs were very grainy is the best way to describe it.
We ordered two types of fish and squid. One fish was silver the other red. I liked the silver fish shauna liked the red one. The squid was gross and it took everything to eat it. It was very much like a mushroom but chewyer. Mario was telling us it was most likely because it was boiled he only likes it grilled.
Yep so there u have it me miss picky tryed fish and enjoyed it. Fancy that.
The next day we tryed to ride the bikes into town, well my chain was rusted into spot, the third bike the tire was so flat it was coming off.
So we just chilled at home, had some alone time. We both needed it.
I love that I was sitting out on a picnic table in a tee shirt in February, man life is so hard. Now people remember this is me, miss cold as ice and I was in a tee.
Latter that afternoon we went for a tour of a surf board shop. It was so interesting to see how much harder work goes into each board. So very neat.
We were back to surfing today.
My turning is getting very good getting lots of claps and thumbs up from Mario. This morning we were surfing white waves.
Oh I should explain that. White waves is the waves that have all ready broken and they are white and foamy looking. Green waves are the ones that have not broken yet, they are the ones real surfers surf lol.
So this morning we were surfing the whites witch is what every beginner does but we have moved up and surf the bigger whites that are out farther so knee to butt level.
I went to get one white and it felt like it had more power but I still went for it and I even turned. I fall off and Mario is like perfect. So I was happy as I got closer he told me that the wave had got stronger and turned back into a green, I surfed a green perfectly and I guess to ketch one get up and turn is the last steep you are taught so that made me happy. Mind you that wave was maybe 3feet but still, it all so explained why it felt different. So after some more whites Mario is like ok time to get some green we are like ok. Well that poor man we went out to chest high water and he would swim run us in line and give us a push so we could get the wave. Of man what a feeling to get a green wave. I got up lots thanks to his push to get the speed. These were around 3 and 4 feet waves. It was so amazing and I think I did very well. Mind you when u fall the waves have alot more force.
Thank you water polo for teaching me to just wait underwater. I have been tossed by some big waves and not once panicked if anything I cought my self thinking I better get posesion once this ass gets off me, that was also one of my harder hits.
Over all it was a great morning I wasn't cloud nine.
So this afternoon Mario told us to bring our camera I havevan underwater one.
So we started the afternoon getting some great shots of us surfing and falling lol. Well I know I got up and was able to turn what ever way he signaled witch was what ever side shauna was not on. There was slim picking for waves the wind was very strong and killing the white waves. Shauna said she did not get up much I was just in my own surfing bubble. So after a bit Mario said today is the calmest and smallest the big waves are going to be, the were at least 6feet. And we paddled out and sat there just like real surfers it was suchba great feeling kind of like getting to move up to the adult table from the kids. There had to be atleast 10 guys out there. And what a great view getting to watch them try to make a wave from behind. Must say if the wind was not tossing sand and water in my face I could have enjoyed the view much better.
With Mario giving me a push I was able to get 2 waves but I chickened out slash the wind made me fall. So I stered to go down and we'll it is a big dip donw and I could not keep my self from looking down. Rule one look were u want to go so the beach.
I will just need to work on that in may. Because Mario said it does not look like we will be going back out there if the swells stay so big.
It was a great day and I am excited that I got 4 more days to surf then it is carnival time me and shauna are going to stay because it is how they say good buy to winter it is just a big party and I guess you dress up and sounds like a blast.
I decided to treat my self for my birthday and I will be coming back here for my birthday. I will fly in on May 5 then and will stay another two weeks any one is welcome to join. Google global surf school to get prices.
We also discovered that the cafe with free wifi is only open on weekends.
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