Monday, February 4, 2013

Found

Well after yesterday's dasater of a day. I truly thought a truck had run me over. I went home just laid on the bed. Shauna made super so that was great.
Today I am still in alot of pain, nothing drugs won't fix:P
Tthis morning we woke up to 2 guys surfing in front of our place we watched them as we ate breakfast.   For our morning session we got to surf out front of our place. That was exciting.  The morning did not go well. We ended up leaving the green to go back to the white.  We did get more pictures of us surfing so that was great. We also got the typical surfer pose. Wet suit half off with the board it made my morning.
We were back early because we did not have to drive anywhere so we went for a nice walk along the beach as we ate our lunch, I know u must be jealous.
For the afternoon we went back to the beach that we used at the start of camp. We got out and both marrio and shauna were yelling at me to go but I was still trying to get over my fear.  Once I talked my self into going it was great I got up on a wave and I did not look down lol I looked at Shauna and I surfed a green wave. I am sure every one thiuqi was crazy because I was yelling yaaaa at the end me and shauna had a 30 sec dance party.
After that I just got hammered by waves one gguy Allmost took my head off a had to dive to get out of theway but my board is still to big to go under when I came up I looked for him he did not fall very far, if looks could kill. Oh well he should have stayed with his group and left us be.
So I had one good wave but man was it good.
My feet are frozen I don't think they will ever thought out.
Good night here is to a good tomorrow since it is our last surfing day.

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