Painful day

This morning was a good morning Joe came with an extra treat for breakfast. This tart with some yummy filling. He said it was his favorite. And I forgot to and this yesterday don't know how but yesterday Mario showed up with peanut butter, we talked about missing it and asked if it was here, and u can only get it at special stores well he saw it and get it for us, he is so great.
So along with they yummy tart we also got to have peanut butter on toast. It was so good I think I went to heaven. I missed peanut butter soooo much.
There was bad wind and the swell was coming in wrong so we had to go to this new beach.... Well we were surfing were the river met the ocean...all my shark stuff tells me this is a no no but Mario said they don't get that type of sharks, so I trusted him and went in. We'll how the swells were coming in we were in calf high water with 4 to 5 feet waves crashing on us, and the water level got to maybe waist deep. Very hard to surf.
I took one very bad fall the wave slamed me into the bottom the right side of my face and shoulder took a good hit. After that my right shoulder hurt I only caught maybe 2 waves after that much it was hard to get up when favoring one side.
Oh on a funny note one wave slamed me into the ground so hard my hands got stuck in the sand.
I dropped half my spaghetti in the sink at lunch.
Then back to surfing we were not to happy to know we had to surf they same spot but Mario said he only goes there as a last resort.
The waves were much better waist high water so you were not getting slamed into the bottom.
The waves were bigger 6to 7feet. I got a few waves and my shoulder was still bugging me so I got out to stretch it, it felt tight. I was stretching it and I let out a burp and then it poped and felt ten times better.
So back to the water, I got one good wave went to turn to the back side witch is ur hard side to turn lost my balance, one foot fell off one foot stayed on board I did not know I could do the splits that far.
Then on another wave my legs were faster then the rest of me. Cut my hand with my toenail, was bleeding the rest of the time we were there.
We'll I think that was the most of the pains.
Going out to the bars tonight should be fun.